The ash face-frames were all screwed together with the Kreg Foreman Pocket-hole machine. It's a nice system with strong joints. No regrets in those joints for strength speed and accuracy. Way faster than half lap or tenons. I would love to have the Festool domino but I doubt wifey would go for $1000 for machine that drills oval shaped holes.  Poor me.

Before mounting they all got primed and painted and top coated to match the doors (see the cabinet doors for more info on the paint used). That was a process... painting all the faces proved to be time consuming and use a lot of paint (over spray). Mounting the face frames were a bit of a hassle. If I were to build more, I would create a jig. The carcass sides that were not exposed got pocket holes ever 10 inches to help set the face frames. That proved to be very helpful as it allowed me to clamp, screw, and move the clamp. 

The due to the plight of ash trees in our area, I was able to get this wood for a very reasonable price. After having the rough-cut kiln dried, I started the process of S4S (smooth 4 sides) the lumber. I had to primer the panel without the rails and stiles on so that is there was any movement (which there typically isn't with ash) it didn't leave any little unpainted areas. after getting a good coat of primer on the raised panels, I assembled all the rails and stiles. After another coat of primer, mostly to cover the rails and stiles, I put 3 coats of General Finish Antique White Milk paint on. Then it was 4 coats of the General Finish's Performance top coat. I never sprayed paint before, actually, I never build cabinets before, but I was also new to HVLP spraying. Let me tell you general finish sprays NICE! I really love it.

So the drawers were a little bit easier because I didn't have to paint them white. I just applied 4 coats of the Valspar Zenith Waterborne Catalyzing lacquer. Another great product but you do have to use it fairly quickly after opening it. It starts to catalyze as soon as air hits it. No thinning needed for HVLP. I regretted not using under mount slides on the drawers, but when I drew everything up, I had planed to use side slides. I also already had the face frames made and the drawer panels cut to size. To be honest, it would have taken a lot more time to re-draw and re-cut parts than I could afford. So, side slides it was.